Posts: 220
Threads: 28
Joined: Jul 2020
Reputation:
10
2024-03-27, 06:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 2024-03-27, 06:43 PM by MigGat.)
Hello everyone. My boat has a Volvo Penta D2-75 engine. The boat is from 2005, so that gives an idea of when the engine was manufactured.
I found this link https://open-boat-projects.org/en/volvo-...interface/ and I would like to know if it applies to my engine.
Honestly, I don't know where to start :S
Thanks!
I also found this other (rather expensive) solution: https://yachtdevicesus.com/products/1708...7885293610
Posts: 220
Threads: 28
Joined: Jul 2020
Reputation:
10
This picture shows the ¿electronic bits? of the engine, I think:
Posts: 159
Threads: 14
Joined: Oct 2020
Reputation:
4
Looks like you have a wire off of an oil sender there, the brown one right behind the box. You'll need some sort of interface, if this is a "digitized" engine - like the one from Yacht Devices. As far as I understand it, J1979 is a can bus, which is what NMEA2000 is based on, however, without some sort of "go-between" the two cannot speak to each other. If you are going the SensESP route, consider that the guy who writes SensESP also runs Hat Labs ( http://www.hatlabs.fi). Check out his "Hamlet" board which might do all the things you need it to do and you can still program it yourself.
Posts: 220
Threads: 28
Joined: Jul 2020
Reputation:
10
Thanks SCarns. I looked at the (older) protocol J1708 https://yachtdevicesus.com/products/1708...ay-ydes-04 as well as the newer https://yachtdevicesus.com/products/engi...deg-04J939
If I could use those, that would be perfect because even if I embrace DIY philosophy, I suck at electronics and all my experiments in my old boat result in unstable systems. So I decided this time I'm gonna stick to what I know (coding) and leave electronics for the ones who know. Also, the boat electronics were working perfectly when I bought it, so I wouldnt like to touch anything, only add a layer on top of it. I already did that adding a N2K network, and centralaizing all communications in the Rpi (N2K, NMEA0183 and Seatalk1)
But as you say, I cannot see anywhere to plug those in my engine, so there's where I'm lost.
I also wrote an email to HatLabs to see if they can help out, either telling me how can I connect Hamblet board, or by designing a custom board.
But logic tells me that if I can see revolutions and and fuel tank level:
At least THAT must be possible to send to SignalK somehow.
Posts: 220
Threads: 28
Joined: Jul 2020
Reputation:
10
So I finally went with HatLabs HAMLET board, which seems like the best option for my engine ( https://docs.hatlabs.fi/halmet/docs/getting-started/). But I now have some doubts about the wiring.
First of all, if any of you wishes to help me out (I hope so ![Heart Heart](https://forum.openmarine.net/images/smilies/heart.png) ), the documentation of my engine can be found here: https://www.volvopenta.com/your-engine/m...handbooks/, using the serial number: 5103913572. So about the doubts:
RPM:
I assumed the W terminal was the single wire labeled "2", but how can I confirm that using a multimeter? Also, the ground connection should come from the alternator too? The starter motor? Any of the batteries? (pretty sure it must be the starter battery, but doesn't hurt to ask ![Tongue Tongue](https://forum.openmarine.net/images/smilies/tongue.png) ). Sorry about the picture, i will clean the alternator and replace it ASAP.
Fuel Tank Level:
I think this is gonna be quite straight forward. I will measure the voltage from the original gauge and connect it to an analog input. Will measure log both voltage and tank level (visually inspecting the gauge) and then code a linear (or not linear) interpolation to get the tank level.
What's this? Can I use it?
I noticed this 2 wire connection which attached to what seems some kind of sensor. Do you know what it is? And if so, can I connect it to HAMLET board to monitor something?
Thanks!
Posts: 27
Threads: 5
Joined: Jan 2020
Reputation:
6
Hi,
You can detect the W terminal using a multimeter in the AC V mode. When you get a strong (about 14V) AC voltage, you've found the correct terminal. The signal frequency corresponds to the frequency read by HALMET.
It's best to provide only one GND connection to the HALMET digital/analog inputs. So, in practice, either the battery or the electrical panel. If you only would have the RPM input, then it would be best to take the ground from the alternator.
The sensor in your last photo is likely an oil pressure alarm switch. You can route it to a HALMET digital input but I think that won't give you great benefit. However, you can switch that sender to one that provides both oil pressure and alarm and then you can connect the pressure output to one of HALMET's analog inputs.
Posts: 220
Threads: 28
Joined: Jul 2020
Reputation:
10
Thanks @mairas. I went to the boat and checked. Regarding the alternator, there's only 4 connectors: one is ground, another is connected to battery charger and has a fixed ~14.5V DC current. The one with the label "2" in the pictures above does not provide any significant voltage.
The remaining one, when measured voltage with AC mode, goes in a pattern from 0V -> 87.7V -> 0V -> 9.69V. Is it safe to assume this is the W terminal? If so, isn't 87.7V far too much for the board?
Regarding the fuel tank:
I measured these 2 wires and it's about 9.5V, with the tank half filled. Does this make sense? I don't really understand why there are 3 wires :S
Regarding the oil pressure alarm switch, I will deal with it later.
Posts: 338
Threads: 34
Joined: Oct 2019
Reputation:
30
2024-04-11, 03:11 AM
(This post was last modified: 2024-04-11, 03:12 AM by Techstyle.)
I don't have your engine, but with mine, I did some research on the engine and found a couple of other ports on the engine that could be used for a water temperature and oil pressure sensor and added them. I also added a W wire to the alternator which was pretty simple and on the video from 8:24 here: https://youtu.be/1wRZIEQAE_0?si=IaJtrCWJm1Ex6k1d&t=504
remember if you use the existing sensors you will most likely lose the gauges, I added extra for that reason
Posts: 220
Threads: 28
Joined: Jul 2020
Reputation:
10
2024-04-11, 05:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 2024-04-11, 05:06 PM by MigGat.)
Thanks Techstyle, I saw your videos and found some interesting info. Same as the ones from @BoatingBaileys.
But I'm afraid my main issue is that I don't find any electrical diagram of my engine, I don't know enough to understand where to plug each thing. Right now I only aim for the very basics, which are RPM and fuel tank volume.
For example, I can't even find the alternator ¿belt ratio? to calculate the RPM from the pulses.
Posts: 338
Threads: 34
Joined: Oct 2019
Reputation:
30
(2024-04-11, 05:03 PM)MigGat Wrote: Thanks Techstyle, I saw your videos and found some interesting info. Same as the ones from @BoatingBaileys.
But I'm afraid my main issue is that I don't find any electrical diagram of my engine, I don't know enough to understand where to plug each thing. Right now I only aim for the very basics, which are RPM and fuel tank volume.
For example, I can't even find the alternator ¿belt ratio? to calculate the RPM from the pulses.
an easy way to deal with ratio, is just to set it to 1:1, then run at 1000 rpm and see what you get, if the 4000 then the ratio is 4:1. then repeat at 2500 to check it.
|