2020-12-15, 02:24 PM
Thanks for posting the schematic again. I have seen it in the thread before but did not understand at the time. You have wired it up exactly the way I did with mine, with the little difference of how I drive my clutch and shunt. Don't worry that you do not have the original NECO stuff inside of the box. You really just need the rudder potentiometer with the end switches (although you can get away without them) and the leads to the coils. I have this big mess of wires that make it look complicated, but just so I can switch back to the NECO CU.
With the pololu, you have to use the RC pwm mode that drives the pin at 50% duty cycle for no motor movement. You could try to wake up the part of the motorino code that drives the low side of the Hbridge.
A lazier option would be to order an IBT2 online for 10 euros and try it the way I did on mine, using the H-bridge mode. You will save a bit more than half of the idling current (when the motor does not move but the clutch is engaged). If we ever get the clutch to be driven with PWM, we will massage the idling current down to less than a quarter. My NECO CU takes about 60 watts on idling. Now with pypilot it idles on less than 20 watts, and more savings are to be expected with the clutch.
With the pololu, you have to use the RC pwm mode that drives the pin at 50% duty cycle for no motor movement. You could try to wake up the part of the motorino code that drives the low side of the Hbridge.
A lazier option would be to order an IBT2 online for 10 euros and try it the way I did on mine, using the H-bridge mode. You will save a bit more than half of the idling current (when the motor does not move but the clutch is engaged). If we ever get the clutch to be driven with PWM, we will massage the idling current down to less than a quarter. My NECO CU takes about 60 watts on idling. Now with pypilot it idles on less than 20 watts, and more savings are to be expected with the clutch.