There are inexpensive "Car Power Technology" or "CPT" brand power supplies all over Amazon, I've got one of them to supply my Raspberry Pi. Otherwise I'd use a good quality car charger (I've got a bunch of 12v sockets I can install).
2020-02-06, 09:46 PM (This post was last modified: 2020-02-06, 09:49 PM by verkerkbr.)
(2020-02-06, 04:03 PM)emilecantin Wrote: There are inexpensive "Car Power Technology" or "CPT" brand power supplies all over Amazon, I've got one of them to supply my Raspberry Pi. Otherwise I'd use a good quality car charger (I've got a bunch of 12v sockets I can install).
A lot of this car usb loaders are of a bad quality with thin usb wires and these don't have a regulated and protected output. This Mainwell cost here around € 20,-. A decent power supply with a good cable is important for a RPI.
Most cheap usb loader cables have very thin wires.
I have used this type of power supply (XL4015) for three years, and they gave me full satisfaction.
I use to "stabilize" the big coil with 2 drops of hot glue on each side to prevent any possible damage due to vibrations ;
(Easily found on ebay - search XL4015 -, note a new type of PCB is available with a flat mounted Coil)
Important : use a Schottky 5A diode as 'In+' connection to prevent any damage in case of reverse connection. ;
I use headers, or excess length of the diode legs, for the 3 other connections to avoid welding the wires directly to the PCB ;
I set the output voltage to 5.20 VDC, and then lock the potentiometer with tow drops of nail varnish.
Also, but optional :
I use wire-wrapping to connect the Out + and - to the GPIO header.
Connection to boat power is made via a barrel DC connector 5,5-3,1, + insde.
Cordialement
Didier B
Pi4, SSD USB3, OP 3.0 Touch SK 3.2.1 OpenCPN 5.8.4 : Thank you Thank you Thank you
(2020-02-09, 02:14 PM)frajop Wrote: I am currently testing the StromPi3. A very interesting and flexible electronic. It works fine with openplotter. https://www.joy-it.net/en/products/rb-strompi3
regards
Frank
have used the StromPi3 for a while now but had to change it 2 times. The capacitor starts hissing after a while and to modify to serial-less mode is cumbersome.
I was hoping for a Out-of-the-box solution for UPS and tested also the battery addition but could never get the system working without hassle. You cannot just reboot, need to solder around rather than having jumpers and need to add a taster-switch. Too many steps which can introduce error.
Next time the StromPi starts giving problems I will search for another solution.
Sorry - just my 2 cent.
I have used this type of power supply (XL4015) for three years, and they gave me full satisfaction.
I use to "stabilize" the big coil with 2 drops of hot glue on each side to prevent any possible damage due to vibrations ;
(Easily found on ebay - search XL4015 -, note a new type of PCB is available with a flat mounted Coil)
Important : use a Schottky 5A diode as 'In+' connection to prevent any damage in case of reverse connection. ;
I use headers, or excess length of the diode legs, for the 3 other connections to avoid welding the wires directly to the PCB ;
I set the output voltage to 5.20 VDC, and then lock the potentiometer with tow drops of nail varnish.
Also, but optional :
I use wire-wrapping to connect the Out + and - to the GPIO header.
Connection to boat power is made via a barrel DC connector 5,5-3,1, + insde.
Good tips how is it with a Rpi 4? I use screw terminals. I just cut 1 side off.
(2020-02-06, 11:52 AM)verkerkbr Wrote: Mean Well power supply is stabilized and isolated. Has startup protection. Output voltage can be regulated. Here set on 5.2 volt. 5 Amps.