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Power module for MacArthur HAT in Raspberry 5
#11
(2024-02-23, 08:45 PM)Sully Wrote:
(2024-02-23, 07:13 PM)Max1947 Wrote:
(2024-02-23, 06:34 PM)Sailoog Wrote: Do not worry and thanks for reporting. If you missed this, more people probably will and that means we should make the manual clearer about it.

Big Grin Well, it can be useful to other old idiots like me who use copy/paste. 

Now I just have to wait for Op4 to progress. Good work and as always, good wind!

Hi,

I'm sully and I'm a young apprentice (idiot may sound too harsh on ourselves) which found this thread as completely useful.

Cheers.

Smile Ciao Sully, 

sometimes google translator plays tricks, you have to translate "non-technical old man".

Buon vento!
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#12
I have another problem when I try to input the GPIO in the Pypilot App /Settings/Raspberry. Even if the small window turns white when I click on Shutdown or power Off, it does not accept any input, not directly from keyboard and also not Paste. So I can not define the GPOIs 21 and 26.
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#13
(2024-09-07, 03:40 PM)SpiritofZiana Wrote: I have another problem when I try to input the GPIO in the Pypilot App /Settings/Raspberry. Even if the small window turns white when I click on Shutdown or power Off, it does not accept any input, not directly from keyboard and also not Paste. So I can not define the GPOIs 21 and 26.

Those fields are not editable, you have to click the GPIO buttons to selet the GPIO from a new window.
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#14
(2024-01-16, 06:28 AM)CaptIgmu Wrote: Could use Pololo 5V 5.5A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D36V50F5, but need to use 5 pin SIP header, cut trace to VRP, add jumper from EN to unconnected VRP pin!

Posting this to hopefully help others to avoid what happened  to me and or get some clarification.

This module is bigger, it wont fit on the board and be able to bolt down, it also  over hangs the gpio header pins.
I connected this via DuPont cables and it worked well for a few weeks.
the header socket on the hat became loose creating high resistance between contacts and wires. i replaced the header socket with a jst xh socket thinking this should solve the issue.. the wires on the jst cable i used where 26AWG way to thin altho only short 100mm one way, i was getting under voltage shutdowns of the pi. it was at this point i noticed that my rpi5 board was warped im guessing this was because of the high current but unsure. I can now see a gap in the header riser and the pi at the  centre and the pi pcb is indeed warped downward. seems to be still working fine tho.

Pololu 5V, 5A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D24V50F5, i tried to find one of these in the start but nothing in th uk and shipping from the states made it to expensive. would this of helped with undervotage warped board?

are the gpio pins capable of supporting this power?

I doubt i would have been hitting 5v 5amps, pi has
nvme pimaroni bottom board
rpi5 with active ccooler
and the  MacArthur HAT and imu module 
bme280..
all usb devices are from a powered hub.

powering off usb right now, but whats my best option to power off 12 volt on the boat.. try the recommended power module?
use 18awg cables with a jst plug and reuse D36V50F5?
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#15
(2025-03-21, 11:25 AM)shotaway Wrote:
(2024-01-16, 06:28 AM)CaptIgmu Wrote: Could use Pololo 5V 5.5A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D36V50F5, but need to use 5 pin SIP header, cut trace to VRP, add jumper from EN to unconnected VRP pin!

Posting this to hopefully help others to avoid what happened  to me and or get some clarification.

This module is bigger, it wont fit on the board and be able to bolt down, it also  over hangs the gpio header pins.
I connected this via DuPont cables and it worked well for a few weeks.
the header socket on the hat became loose creating high resistance between contacts and wires. i replaced the header socket with a jst xh socket thinking this should solve the issue.. the wires on the jst cable i used where 26AWG way to thin altho only short 100mm one way, i was getting under voltage shutdowns of the pi. it was at this point i noticed that my rpi5 board was warped im guessing this was because of the high current but unsure. I can now see a gap in the header riser and the pi at the  centre and the pi pcb is indeed warped downward. seems to be still working fine tho.

Pololu 5V, 5A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D24V50F5, i tried to find one of these in the start but nothing in th uk and shipping from the states made it to expensive. would this of helped with undervotage warped board?

are the gpio pins capable of supporting this power?

I doubt i would have been hitting 5v 5amps, pi has
nvme pimaroni bottom board
rpi5 with active ccooler
and the  MacArthur HAT and imu module 
bme280..
all usb devices are from a powered hub.

powering off usb right now, but whats my best option to power off 12 volt on the boat.. try the recommended power module?
use 18awg cables with a jst plug and reuse D36V50F5?

the current power module will cover perfectly your needs: https://shop.openmarine.net/front/24-10-...r-hat.html
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#16
the current power module will cover perfectly your needs: https://shop.openmarine.net/front/24-10-...r-hat.html

nice one this is what will do...
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#17
Is there going to be a problem if I connect from Ipad to PI with USB? I see there is a note not to add power via the usbc on the rasp Pi?
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#18
The power supply of MacArthur HAT is not designed to use the Pi as a USB charger. If you're lucky, the Pi may limit the charge current to the iPad. If you're less lucky, the Pi may brown out when trying to draw more than 3A from the MacArthur HAT. If you're unlucky, the power module or MOSFET on the MacArthur HAT may overheat.
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#19
related question ( I hope)
I have tried to find the SW12 switch on that powermodule but it appears my non-talent for elctronics does not help.
exactly what do you mean with this:
[ Did you also connect 12V SW? it will work only when you close the switch]
is it a physical thing? or is the change in the configuratrion all?
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#20
(2025-04-30, 07:45 AM)wimsl Wrote: related question ( I hope)
I have tried to find the SW12 switch on that powermodule but it appears my non-talent for elctronics does not help.
exactly what do you mean with this:
[ Did you also connect 12V SW? it will work only when you close the switch]
is it a physical thing? or is the change in the configuratrion all?


Look at the image below. you need to feed "12V SW" with 12V to start.

[Image: powering.png]
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